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Lot 130

MAGNIFICANT MID CENTURY TUTTI-FRUTTI TRANSFORMATION NECKLACE

Estimated Value:

110.000 € - 150.000 €

Result:

incl. Premium and VAT

Description:

Probably 1950s
Länge ca. 42cm, Armband Länge 19cm.
750/000 yellow gold stamped, as well as hallmark A in triangle. A total of 149 different colored sapphires probably from Ceylon, 76 blue sapphires, 39 rose-purple sapphires/rubies, 23 yellow sapphires and 11 green sapphires, total weight approx. 240.00ct (measured and calculated in the setting as best as possible). 19 diamonds approx. 1.40ct H-L/P, as well as 2 green tourmalines approx. 1.85ct.
Colorful mixture of pastel shades in yellow, rose and blue occasionally green, the stones are flower-shaped in crabs. The necklace can be taken apart into 5 parts, resulting in a bracelet, earrings and pendants (suspension would have to be made). Total weight approx. 153.1g. Most stones with traces of wear.
From a West German private collection, acquired in the 1990s at Salis and Vertes in Salzburg.
Literature:
-David Bennett, Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewelry, 2000.
-Dictionnaire International Bijou, Paris 1998. Type comparison p. 142.
-Sylvie Raulet: Schmuck der 40er & 50er Jahre, Munich 1987. Type comparison pp. 156/157.
When Pierre Cartier was commissioned to design a piece of jewellery for the English royal family in 1901, he could not have guessed that with this design he would create a completely new type of jewellery that enjoys great popularity to this day.
Cartier's task was for Queen Alexandra, who was also Empress of India, to create a necklace that would reflect the beauty and richness of color of India. He succeeded in creating a necklace from different colored gemstones, which captured the dazzling exoticism of the country. The necklace became a style icon and the tutti frutti style began its triumphal march in Europe and overseas.
In the 1950/60s, the tutti-frutti style experienced a true renaissance. After the privations of the war, people wanted colorful jewelry and the economic miracle made jewelry creations appear all the more magnificent and opulent. The necklace shown here, which is reminiscent of a colourful spring wreath, is a wonderful example of this new joyful time.